Macro Photography Techniques in the Field -- Nature and Wildlife Photography

One of the biggest differences in shooting macros is the compression factor. Generally, the smaller the subject, the less depth of field your lens will provide. A 2.8 on a portrait subject at 50mm will be less shallow than a 2.8 on a 50mm macro. If you would normally shoot at 5.6 for a regular subject then you should shoot your macro subject at at least three stops smaller (f11). This becomes tricky when you don't have a lot of light.

Getting More Light on the Subject

There are several ways to increase the amount of light on a macro subject. The first is an off-camera flash. Shooting a flash directly from your camera will make your subject look horrid. An off camera flash... set at least a foot away from your subject will add that little bit of extra fill light needed and it will still look natural. Ring flashes are designed for macro photography; however, because they are mounted directly on the camera, try to find a ring light that will shoot from either the right or left side only. Again, even light on a macro is going to look phony and over-lit (and it will be obvious that you used a flash). If you set your ring flash to either shoot from the right or left only then it will cast normal shadows on your subject.

You can also use reflectors and many manufacturers make small reflectors suitable for this kind of photography.

Macro Photography Techniques in the Field -- Nature and Wildlife Photography

One of the biggest differences in shooting macros is the compression factor. Generally, the smaller the subject, the less depth of field your lens will provide. A 2.8 on a portrait subject at 50mm will be less shallow than a 2.8 on a 50mm macro. If you would normally shoot at 5.6 for a regular subject then you should shoot your macro subject at at least three stops smaller (f11). This becomes tricky when you don't have a lot of light.

Getting More Light on the Subject

There are several ways to increase the amount of light on a macro subject. The first is an off-camera flash. Shooting a flash directly from your camera will make your subject look horrid. An off camera flash... set at least a foot away from your subject will add that little bit of extra fill light needed and it will still look natural. Ring flashes are designed for macro photography; however, because they are mounted directly on the camera, try to find a ring light that will shoot from either the right or left side only. Again, even light on a macro is going to look phony and over-lit (and it will be obvious that you used a flash). If you set your ring flash to either shoot from the right or left only then it will cast normal shadows on your subject.

You can also use reflectors and many manufacturers make small reflectors suitable for this kind of photography.